Welcome to our basic guide to the equipment photographers carry and the language we speak. In order to help as many people as possible, we'll start at the very beginning and break down camera types, equipment, terminology and some do's and don'ts.
There is a lot of information contained here, so if you want to skip bits, you can jump straight to the following sections:
Without further ado, let's begin:
You're thinking about getting a camera... How do you decide which camera is the best one for you?
The best place to start is to look at the Four basic categories that cameras fall into:
Compact Cameras:
Compact cameras, also called point and shoot cameras, are easy to use, lightweight, affordable and offer good value for money. They pretty much do all the work for you, using built-in automatic focus and exposure. The image quality you get from a compact camera is good, and come in a wide range of modern, stylish designs to appeal to each individual's own preferences.
Technology is moving forward quickly and you can get some models of compacts with 20x optical zoom and other advanced features. The main drawback to these cameras is have little control over focusing and exposures, making it difficult to create the special effects you may want for those “wow” shots that you are probably hoping for. They are also limited in their zoom range, accessories and attachments.
Prosumer (Bridge) Cameras:
Prosumer cameras are a fantastic alternative to DSLR cameras, designed for amateurs who are serious about their photography and want the same levels of manual control as the professionals without the price-tag. This is a type of camera highly recommended to students taking courses. They enable students to take impressive high quality, professional level images at reasonable, affordable and competitive range prices. In addition, while having many of the same manual controls, these cameras are less complex to operate than the DSLR.
DSLR Cameras:
DSLR (or Digital Single-Lens Reflex) are professional-level cameras that provide outstanding image quality, control and versatility. When those qualities are combined with the skill and creativity of a knowledgeable and experienced photographer, the results are exceptional. DSLR cameras are primarily used by professional photographers, although recent significant price drops are making these models a viable option for a broader range of consumers.
These cameras are available in a range of price points, from budget models to mid-range, and up from there to the most elite and advanced, so it's worth investigating them further before ruling them out as an option for you. As an amateur just starting out in photography you might not want to jump right into one of the advanced models – you can achieve a professional finish to your photographs without overwhelming yourself with an overly complex professional grade camera. One great option is to borrow one and see how it feels, or to start out with a basic model first, some of which come with starter or “kit” lenses.
DSLR Cameras provide several advantages, the primary of which are increased speed, flexibility and quality of images. The quality can be attributed to the larger sensors in this type of camera, which prevents any “noise” or grain from appearing in your images – leaving only perfect clarity and the highest possible picture quality.
Mirrorless Cameras:
These cameras are the newest development and the future of the DSLR Camera. While on the outside they are similar to the DSLR camera, and offer the same functionality and interchangeable lenses, they no longer have the Reflex Mirror of the DSLR and rely on the Digital Sensor for their operation. For beginners, mirrorless cameras could potentially be a better choice due to their more compact size and simpler controls. Mirrorless cameras are still a relatively new camera and there are at present still a few issues that potentially can be worked out by manufacturers, such as lag and battery life*.
*at time of publication there are still a relatively limited number of Mirrorless Cameras compared to traditional DSLR's.
If you are going down the road of DSLR type cameras then we need to talk about Lenses because what use is a camera without a lens?
The best piece of advice I got when I was first starting out was to spend as little money on a camera body as possible, and learn my craft; but invest in lenses as I progressed. We'll mention it again later, but while camera technology will change rapidly, a good lens should last you years with the right care and attention.
Lenses
The lens might be considered the most important part of the camera, and its type and quality affect the images you produce.
Zoom Lens:
A zoom lens allows a photographer to get closer to their subject (magnify the image) without actually moving toward it. It is a very useful type of lens. It allows the user to achieve a variety of views and compositions in the shortest amount of time possible, since they don't have to change lenses to recompose images – but simply make an adjustment by twisting the lens. The lens magnifies the image of its subject by changing the focal point. The further away the focal point is from the sensor inside the camera, the greater the magnification will be.
Focal points are measured on zoom lenses in millimetres i.e. 50-200mm
Prime Lens:
A Prime Lens has a fixed focal length, which the photographer cannot adjust as they can with a zoom lens. This enables them to focus quickly; prime lenses produce images with high levels of picture quality and clarity.
Prime lenses are available in all focal lengths and range from fisheye (extreme wide angle) through wide-angle to extreme telephoto (very long lenses). They tend to be more economical in price and are lighter in weight. The specificity of use of prime lenses can encourage a photographer to more carefully consider the composition or framing of their shot.
Macro Lens:
Macro lenses are highly valued by both professional and amateur photographers for their ability to enable extreme close-up photography, creating unique and interesting photographs of images unlike anything normally see-able to by the human eye. Macro lenses also allow the creation of some amazing abstract images and modern art photography.
Macro is usually use din Wildlife photography, such as close-ups of flowers and tiny subjects like a bee or a butterfly. It enables the capture of the most intricate details, resulting in the images that are effectively larger than life – although technically macrophotography begins at magnifications of 1:1 (life size).
Macrophotography can be a lot of fun, and often creates some truly magical images. Macro enables you to take images that present a view of the world that can't be seen any other way, since the human eye can't get close enough to see what your camera can.
Wide Angle Lens:
Wide-angle lenses generally are defined as one with a focal length of less than 35mm, but at least 24mm, while an ultra wide-angle lens has a focal length of 24mm or less.
On a compact camera, wide-angle is often when you've fully zoomed-out, while ultra-wide is generally not available for this type of camera without a special lens adaptor.
Wide-angle lenses exaggerate the depth and relative size within your images. Standard lenses limit the view you can capture within a frame, especially if you've in an enclosed space that limits how far back you can move. The wide-angle lens enables you to fit much more into a frame, widening the amount of space and subject you can capture in an image.
Telephoto Lens:
The telephoto lens is a high-magnification lens, enabling the user to isolate an object from its environment and record a smaller portion of a long-range shot.
Telephoto lenses are generally categorised as those with a focal range above 50mm. They are most often with the ranges of 100mm, 200mm and 300mm
Telephoto lenses are a great choice for long-range action photography, such as wildlife photography and sports shots. You can capture the image without moving too close, and therefore avoid distracting or otherwise having an impact on the subject by your presence.
Most professional photographers would prefer to use a prime super-telephoto lens (as opposed to a zoom super-telephoto) for sports and wildlife photography, because the focusing is faster and they can achieve sharper images from it.
When using any longer lenses, camera shake is always a risk if there is even the slightest movement. If you are using a super-telephoto lens and will need to move around to get the right angle, a monopod is suggested for assistance; that said, some of the more expensive telephoto lenses now come with built-in image stabilisation, so may not be necessary.
NOTE:
Don't try to save money by using a cheap lens; as if you apply a cheap lens to a top quality camera, you will still find yourself producing low quality images. Invest in high quality lenses and adapt the body of your camera, as technology advances so very quickly, but good glass will last a lifetime.
Tripods
The purpose and function of a camera's tripod is very straightforward. It is to hold the camera in a precise position for long periods of time, which isn't possible if you're holding the camera in your hands.
Tripods are absolutely essential when taking a photograph that requires the shutter to remain open for long periods of time; otherwise there is a naturally high risk of camera shake (blurring).
A tripod unlike a human, can easily hold your camera steady for 30 seconds or longer exposure periods, accurately and precisely, allowing you to keep the exact composition you require.
The other main advantage of using a tripod is that it allows the photographer to be in the image as well – you can make yourself your own subject.
Monopods
Monopods (also known as unipods) perform the same function as a tripod; the main obvious difference is that instead of having three legs, they have one.
Due to being lighter and smaller in size, a monopod is more convenient that a tripod – it is far easier to transport, carry and store.
Monopods are very versatile, in part because the often have a ball swivel attached to them, enabling you to tilt the camera to just about any angle you may nee.
Monopods are often used in fashion photography, by sports photographers and by the paparazzi, since on of their most advantageous features is how easy they are to work with in limited spaces or where the camera angle needs to be adjusted regularly.
It is important to note that a monopod cannot support a camera by itself (as it's just one pole), so before you buy one, be certain it can meet your needs. Depending on what your photographic style, genre and objectives are, it may or may not meet your particular needs.
Camera and Lens Cleaning.
A modern camera is a highly technical electronic and mechanical instrument. Repairs can be costly, so in order to avoid them NEVER force anything into a camera – and if any moving part seems more resistant than it should, call or check the manufacturer's website for an authorised service centre.
Clean your camera before you go out on a shoot, and before you put it away afterward. While you're out shooting with it, if you notice any kind of dirt and dust accumulating, make sure to stop and care for it immediately by using your cleaning kit.
The first step in cleaning your camera is to blow off any excess dust with a blower or air syringe. With a soft brush, specifically made for this purpose, dust and clean the inside and outside of the camera.
If there is dust on the shutter, blow it off from an angle. Brushing or blowing directly on the shutter can cause damage or even misalign the thin precision shutter blades.
A clean cloth may be used to remove surface dirt, but use no detergents, water or solvents. If this is not sufficient to clean your camera, consult a professional service.
Caring for your Camera.
1 - Invest in a Camera Bag.
First, invest in a quality camera bag with enough padding to protect your photography equipment from falls and bumps. Be sure the bag has proper closures to protect the contents against dirt, dust, moisture or any other contaminants.
2 - Keep a clear plastic bag in your camera bag.
Inside your camera bag, stash a clear plastic bag that you can use for extra protection in the case you find yourself in a wet environment. After you're safely home again, be sure to allow your equipment to air dry. Removing the Batteries and Memory Card first.
3 - Get a lens cleaning kit.
Another important item to have with you in your bag is a lens cleaning kit. These kits usually contain a soft lint-free dry cloth, lens cleaning tissue, blower and brush.
4 - Keep your camera with you when you travel.
If you are travelling by plane or other public transport, never allow your camera to be store with the rest of your luggage – keep it with you at all times. Suitcases and other luggage are often handled roughly and without care. They may also be kept in storage compartments with no climate control; both extreme heat and extreme cold can be damaging to your camera.
5 - Keep your camera in a cool, dry place.
If you put your camera in storage for some time, make sure it is in a cool, dry place; if possible, encase it in an airtight container. This includes all of your accessories and attachments too, such as lenses filters and Speedlight (Flash).
6 - Check shutter speed when stored.
Do not store a camera with the shutter pressed, as keeping tension on the shutter springs can damage the mechanism. If you are storing your camera for more than a couple of weeks, also remove the batteries. If they are left in the camera for long periods of time, they may corrode and/or leak which will damage the camera.
7 - Give the camera a check-up if it has been in storage for 3 months or more.
If the camera or any of its related equipment has been in storage for more than three months, it should be taken out of the dry case and checked to make sure all its moveable parts are in operating order and working smoothly.
8 - Take out your batteries when not using.
If you're not using your camera for a period of time, even a few days, take the battery out. A battery can leak at any point due to anything from a Manufacturer fault to a slight ding. A battery leak will ruin not only your day, but a lot of the inner workings of your camera as well.
Basic photography terminology.
This is just a brief overview of the language of photography. We will address each individual subject in separate articles for a more in-depth look.
Aperture (f/number):
The Aperture, also known as the f/number or f/stop, refers to the size of the opening in the lens that allows light to enter the camera. On all but the simplest of cameras you can widen or narrow the opening to increase or decrease the amount of light allowed to reach the film or sensor and Depth of Field (DoF) which will influence the resulting photograph.
In conjunction with shutter speed, aperture determines the exposure of the image – the amount of light that reaches the film and photo.
Aperture is adjusted by selecting one of the available click stops, each of which either doubles or halves the amount of light that enters the camera.
Depth of field:
Depth of Field (DoF) is the range before and beyond the subject which are also reasonably in sharp focus. One point on which you focus will be the sharpest, but that focus doesn't disappear immediately outside of that subject.
The areas closer or farther away than the focal point will be less sharp than the subject, but will still appear to the eye to be in reasonably good focus. The broader the physical range of sharpness, the greater the depth of field.
For more information on Aperture and Depth of Field, visit our Article on f/stop HERE >
Exposure:
Controlling the amount of light that enters the camera is vital to achieving a correctly exposed photograph.
First measure the amount of light available in the room or setting, and adjust the aperture and shutter speeds to allow the needed amount of light to reach the film or sensor.
Exposure is the effect of the total amount of light reaching the film or sensor. If not enough light reaches the film or sensor the image will be too dark or underexposed. Too much light results in an overexposed image.
Focal Length:
Focal length is another lens feature it's important to understand. The focal length of the lens is measured when the focus is set to infinity, and is the distance from the optical centre of the lens to the film or sensor plane.
The focal length determines how large each object in the shot will appear on the film or sensor. A 50mm lens is considered a normal lens when shooting with a 35mm film format camera, because the angle of view approximates the diagonal size of the film. A lens shorter than 50mm is considered a wide-angle lens, and a longer is classified as a telephoto lens. There are also variable focal or “zoom” lenses which have more than one focal length.
The Focal length of a lens is measured in millimetres, such as 28mm, 50mm, 200mm etc. and is indicated either at the mouth or on the barrel of the lens.
Shutter speed:
Shutter speed describes the amount of time the shutter is open, or in digital terms – it's how long the sensor is exposed to “see” the shot you're taking. It's a measure of how long the film or sensor is exposed to light, which is the basic control for taking pictures on a camera. The exposure time is control
led by the shutter speed dial on the camera.
Shutter speed is usually measured in fractions of a second. The faster you want the shutter speed to be, the higher the number you'll select on the dial. For example, 1/1000 is much faster than 1/30, which means less light will enter the camera.
A Bee at 1/5000 Second Vs River at 5 minutes
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